How a Former Mechanic Became One of America’s Best Bread Wizards

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Jeff Gordinier | Esquire

In Cincinnati, 44-year-old Ryan Morgan is baking artisanal bread with blue-collar soul.

When I think about the American food revolution of the past two decades, I think about people like Ryan Morgan.

Morgan, 44, spent the early portion of his wage-earning years working as a mechanic. You can tell. Stocky, solid, salt-and-pepper-haired, and the furthest thing from a hipster, Morgan talks with a kind of no-bullshit midwestern gruffness that’s common in the city where he lives, which is Cincinnati. He happens to bake some of the best bread and pastries I’ve ever tasted, but you won’t catch him being precious about it. Ask and he’ll tell you that the whole thing was an accident.

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